The Changing Fuji Faith
The Age of the Ascetics: Scaling the Peak
Shugendo, the Way of Shugen, was a blend of mountain worship, esoteric Buddhism, Shinto, and other beliefs that traced its roots back to the seventh-century mystic En no Gyoja. Many legends surround the figure of En no Gyoja, some of which involve Mt. Fuji. One tradition holds that, during his exile to Izu Oshima, an island off the Izu Peninsula, he walked across the waves to Mt. Fuji every night to perform austerities there. Legends aside, researchers believe that the activities of the Shugen ascetics who revered En no Gyoja as their founder and performed religious practices in the mountains reached Mt. Fuji in the eleventh century. Unlike those who lived at the foot of the mountain, worshiping it and praying for volcanic activity to subside, Shugen ascetics saw the highest mountain in Japan as a suitable place for their rigorous practices. Those who practiced on the north side of Mt. Fuji made their base on the mountain at a site called Omuro, at the 2nd Station. Here they built a hall housing a statue of En no Gyoja for worship purposes. Later, a Sengen-jinja shrine was built on the site as well.
The Shugen ascetics also brought the mountain within spiritual reach of those who could never visit in person. In the mid-twelfth century, a Shugen ascetic called Matsudai, also known as Fuji Shonin (Holy Man of Fuji) traveled through Japan’s provinces and even the capital, urging people to copy sutras for him to bury on Mt. Fuji. Sutras that appear to have been copied in this period have been found on and around the mountain, even on the peak.
One record from the early fourteenth century describes a group of monks who did not usually practice on mountains being led to the peak of Mt. Fuji by a guide, who was presumably a Shugen ascetic, to perform ritual ablutions called mizugori in a pond at the summit. The idea of Mt. Fuji as a place of spiritual practice had begun to spread from Shugen to other religious practitioners. This established the tradition of tohai, climbing Mt. Fuji as an act of worship, that was eventually embraced by lay pilgrims as well.