Hamo Daggertooth Pike Conger Eel
Hofu gives a new lease of life to a traditional Kyoto delicacy
The daggertooth pike conger (hamo) is a species of eel that grows up to two meters long. An aggressive animal with a pointed head, large mouth, and sharp teeth, it lives close to shore and is found in large numbers in the nutrient-rich waters at either end of the Inland Sea. Yamaguchi ranks in the top five places in Japan for its hamo catch, with Hofu having the biggest catch in the prefecture.
Traditionally, however, most of the hamo caught in Yamaguchi were sent to Kyoto, where the fish was prized by the aristocracy. Even today, hamo remains a must-have dish during Kyoto’s Gion Festival in August. It is prized for its rich umami and for being fattier than fugu (pufferfish) without being oily.
An old favorite. A new start.
In the early 2000s, the city of Hofu decided to stake a claim to its native fish and develop hamo into a local specialty to attract foodie pilgrims. The Tenjin-hamo brand was created and twelve local restaurants formed the Hamo-juku School to study techniques for cutting the fish—which has 1,200 bones!—and develop tasty new recipes.
Proximity to the sea means that hamo from Hofu is unusually fresh. Collaboration among restaurants, meanwhile, guarantees an unusual level of skill, creativity, and innovation among local cooks. Recent Hamo-juku initiatives include the application of nose-to-tail principles to hamo so that every part—from the swim bladder to the liver—can be eaten.
Hamo has now established itself on Japan’s gourmet map. People come to Hofu not just to see Hofu Tenmangu Shrine and visit the historic residences of the Mohri clan, but also to feast like lords on delicious eel.
TENJIN-HAMO EEL QUICK FACTS
• Hamo has 1,200 bones. As a result, it’s very hard to prepare.
• Hamo is so difficult to prepare that Hofu fishmongers used to give it away for free.
• Hamo was a popular seasonal delicacy with the Kyoto aristocracy.
• Hamo season is from mid-May to mid-September—precisely when fugu is not available.
• Hamo in Hofu is far less expensive than in Kyoto—and fresher too.