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Preserving Yokote’s Traditional Food Culture

Yokote’s traditional food culture developed as a response to a simple problem: food supplies had to be made to last through the region’s long, snowy winters. The solution to this problem is fermentation, which allows grains and other crops to be preserved for months. In Yokote, the vital ingredient in the fermentation process is kōji, which is created by introducing a microorganism called Aspergillus oryzae to steamed rice, soybeans, or other grains. The kōji can then be used as a starter to ferment other foods, enabling them to last through the long winter season. Vegetables such as daikon, eggplant, or cucumber can be mixed with kōji and pickled, and kōji can also be combined with soybeans to create miso. Up until the turn of the twentieth century, most households in Yokote had their own specialized storage space for keeping vegetables as they fermented.

The Role of Kōji in Traditional Japanese Cuisine

Many of the most popular and well-known Japanese foods are fermented in a process that starts with creating kōji. When combined with a grain such as rice, the Aspergillus oryzae emit enzymes to break down the starches and proteins contained in the grain. The process continues for days, until the grain forms clumps and begins to emit a distinctive aroma. The finished product can then be combined with other ingredients to create staple Japanese foods such as pickles, miso, sake, and soy sauce. In a process specific to Yokote, residents use as much as two to three times the typical amount of kōji when making miso. This increased ratio helps the soybeans to ferment faster, so that the miso is ready for consumption after being stored for only a single year.

The Legacy of Kōji in Yokote

The process of fermenting grains, vegetables, and other foods began out of necessity. Although the people of Yokote were surrounded by fertile soil and clean natural water, agriculture was all but impossible during the winter months. To survive the long winters, residents developed and shared preservation techniques that were passed down through the generations to create a distinctive food culture. The people of Yokote also came to use kōji as seasoning or as a sweetener rather than simply for preservation. However, in the decades following World War II, Japan’s food culture began to shift away from food prepared according to traditional methods, focusing instead on industrially processed foods. As a result, a great deal of generational knowledge about food preservation has been lost.

In recent years, younger residents have been rediscovering traditional food practices and attempting to revive the knowledge possessed by the prewar generations for the sake of generations to come. The municipal government supports revival efforts throughout the region, and some local restaurants have begun holding cooking classes and other community events to share information on fermentation techniques. Initiatives like this help to ensure that current and future generations will be able to carry on the techniques of Yokote’s kōji-based food culture.

橫手的傳統飲食文化

橫手的傳統飲食文化向來只圍繞著一個課題：如何保存食物以度過漫長多雪的冬天。而發酵就是當地人解決這個問題的方法。經過發酵的糧食和其他許多農作物都可以保存數月之久。發酵過程中必不可少的一大要素就是「麴」（音「渠」，即酒麴）。在橫手，人們將一種被稱為「米麴菌」的微生物放入煮熟的米飯、黃豆或其他穀物中，製造出麴。然後，再利用麴作為引子，發酵其他食物，使它們能夠經歷漫長的冬季而久存不腐。大根（白蘿蔔）、茄子、黃瓜等蔬菜中也可以加入麴，進行發酵醃漬。此外，將麴拌入黃豆中就能製成味噌。直至19、20世紀之交，橫手的絕大多數家庭裡都還有專門的儲藏區，用來保存發酵菜蔬。

「麴」在傳統日本料理中扮演的角色

許多流傳最廣、最有名的日本發酵食品都始於造麴。將米麴菌與米飯或其他穀類混合，混合後釋放出的酶會分解穀物中含有的澱粉和蛋白質，數天後穀物結塊，並開始散發出獨特的香氣。造麴之後，用麴與其他食材混合，便能製作出在日本料理中經常出現的醃漬菜和調料，如醃菜、味噌、清酒、醬油等。在橫手，製作味噌的過程有些與眾不同，用到的麴往往是一般分量的2～3倍。由於麴所占比例增加，加快了黃豆的發酵過程，因此，橫手出品的味噌只需要發酵一年就可食用。

「麴」在橫手的歷史

利用發酵來對穀物、蔬菜和其他食物進行加工，原本是出於生活所迫。儘管橫手地區土地肥沃，天然淡水資源豐沛，但在長達數月的冬季裡無法務農。為了解決冬天食物短缺的問題，當地居民發明、交流食物的保存技術，並代代相傳，形成了當地獨特的飲食文化。後來，橫手居民並不滿足於僅僅將麴用於保存食物，而是開始嘗試將它們用來製作調味料或甜味劑。然而，就在二戰結束後的數十年間，日本的飲食文化開始發生改變，從注重傳統烹飪，轉向了工業加工，以至於過去的許多食物保存技術都失傳了。

近年來，當地的年輕居民開始重新發掘傳統飲食加工方法，希望找回戰前世代相傳的知識，留給後人繼續傳承。橫手市政府也積極支持這傳統飲食文化復興運動，目前一些當地餐廳已開始舉辦烹飪課程、各種社區活動，以分享食品發酵工藝。這些積極的舉措都有助於更多當代乃至於未來的居民能夠繼承以「麴」為基礎的橫手飲食文化。

横手传统饮食文化的保护

横手的传统饮食文化向来只围绕着一个课题：为度过漫长多雪的冬天，努力保存食物。而发酵就是本地人解决这个问题的一个重要方法。经过发酵的粮食和其他许多农作物都可以保存数月之久。发酵过程中必不可少的一大要素就是“麹”（音“屈”，即酒曲）。在横手，人们将一种被称为“米曲霉”的真菌放入煮熟的米饭、黄豆或其他谷物中，制造出麹。然后，再利用麹作为引子，发酵其他食物，保证它们在漫长的冬季里久存不腐。大根（白萝卜）、茄子、黄瓜等蔬菜中也可以加入麹，进行发酵腌渍。此外，将麹拌入黄豆中就能制成味噌。直至19、20世纪之交，横手的绝大多数家庭里都还有专门的储藏区，用来保存发酵菜蔬。

“麹”在传统日本料理中扮演的角色

许多有名的日本传统发酵食品都始于造麹。把米曲霉拌入蒸熟的米饭或其他谷物后，谷物就会释放出酶，内含的淀粉和蛋白质即会被分解。数天后，谷物结块，并开始散发出独特的香气，这就是麹。把制成的麹与其他食材混合，便能制作出在日本料理中不可或缺的小菜和调料，如腌菜、味噌、清酒、酱油等。在横手，制作味噌的过程有些与众不同，用到的麹往往是常规分量的2～3倍。由于麹所占比重增加，加快了黄豆的发酵进程，因此，横手出品的味噌只需要发酵一年就可食用。

“麹”在横手的历史

发酵加工谷物、蔬菜和其他食物，原本是出于生活所迫。虽说横手地区土地肥沃，天然淡水资源丰沛，但是在长达数月的冬季里无法务农。为了解决冬天食物供应短缺的问题，本地居民发明、共享食物保存技术，并代代相传，从而形成了本地独特的饮食文化。横手居民并不满足于仅仅将麴用于保存食物，还尝试用它们来制作调味料或甜味剂。然而，二战结束后，日本的饮食文化开始发生改变，从注重传统烹饪转向工业加工，以至于过去的许多食物保存技术都失传了。

近年来，本地的年轻居民开始重新发掘传统饮食加工方法，希望找回那些战前曾世代相传的知识，留给后人继续传承下去。横手市政府也为这一复兴运动的全面开展提供了支持，目前一些本地餐厅已开始举办烹饪课程、各种社区活动，以分享食品发酵工艺。这些积极的举措都有助于更多当代乃至于未来的居民能够继承以“麴”为基础的横手饮食文化。