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Tofu and Shirakawa-go

Tofu has been an important part of the local cuisine in Shirakawa-go for centuries. In the past, its prevalence was largely due to availability. Soybeans could be grown in the area despite a scarcity of arable land, as farmers could plant the hardy crop on the ridges between their rice paddies. Religion, which in Shirakawa-go until relatively recently had a significant influence on what people ate, also helped establish tofu as a culinary mainstay. Devout Buddhists often follow a vegetarian diet, in which tofu is a key source of protein. Traditionally, nearly all residents of Shirakawa-go belonged to the Jodo Shinshu (True Pure Land) school of Buddhism, which was introduced to the area in the thirteenth century and came to play an important role in village life. Strict vegetarianism was limited mainly to priests, but ordinary people partook of Buddhist cuisine on religious holidays. Among the most important of these for Jodo Shinshu devotees is the annual Ho’onko, which memorializes the school’s founder, Shinran (1173–1263). In Shirakawa-go, the Ho’onko service is followed by a meal that includes several kinds of tofu. One exceptionally solid variety later came to be eaten grilled, which hardens it further, and is referred to as “ishiwari tofu” (stone-breaking tofu). Not quite as hard as the name suggests, the dish is available at many local restaurants, where it is usually served on an iron plate and eaten with soy sauce and katsuobushi (dried, fermented, and smoked fish flakes).

豆腐與白川鄉

數個世紀以來，豆腐一直在白川鄉當地飲食中扮演重要組成部分。過去，這種食材之所以普及，在很大程度上是因為簡單易得。當地出產黃豆，儘管耕地缺乏，但農民們學會了將這種耐寒作物種在稻田間的壟上。此外，直到相當近期，宗教對白川鄉居民的飲食選擇始終有著強大的影響力，豆腐能夠成為當地料理的一大主角，其中也不乏來自宗教的助力。虔誠的佛教徒通常都堅持素食，因此，豆腐就成了攝取蛋白質的主要來源。傳統上，白川鄉幾乎所有居民都是佛教淨土真宗的信徒，這一宗教流派在13世紀被引入該地區，很快便成為了鄉村生活中的重要角色。嚴格的素食通常只是對僧侶的要求，不過普通人在宗教節日裡也會吃素。對於淨土真宗的信徒而言，諸多節日活動中，最重要的是每年一度為紀念宗派創始人親鸞（1173-1263）而舉辦的「報恩講」。在白川鄉，報恩講的儀式完成之後要安排一頓飯，菜單中就包括了好幾道豆腐菜肴。其中有一種特別硬的豆腐是烤著吃，烤過之後會更硬，被稱為「石豆腐」，當然，其實並不至於像名字所說的那樣硬。許多當地餐廳裡都供應這道菜，通常盛在鐵板上端上桌，搭配醬油和柴魚片（曬乾、發酵並燻製後薄切的柴魚片）食用。

豆腐与白川乡

数个世纪以来，豆腐一直是白川乡本地饮食中的重要组成部分。过去，这种食材之所以普及，在很大程度上是因为它简单易得。本地出产黄豆，尽管耕地缺乏，但农民们学会了将这种耐寒作物种在稻田中的田垄上。此外，宗教对白川乡居民的饮食直到最近都有着强大的影响力，豆腐能够成为本地料理的一大主角，其中也不乏它的助力。虔诚的佛教徒通常都坚持素食，因此，豆腐就成了摄取蛋白质的主要来源。传统上，白川乡几乎所有居民都是佛教净土真宗的信徒，这一宗教流派在13世纪被引入该地区，很快便成为了乡村生活中的重要角色。严格的素食通常只是对僧侣的要求，但普通人在宗教节日里也会吃斋饭。对于净土真宗的信徒而言，在诸多节日活动中，最重要的是每年一度为纪念宗派创始人亲鸾(1173-1263)而举办的“报恩讲”。在白川乡，报恩讲的仪式结束之后要安排一顿饭，菜单中就包括了好几种豆腐菜肴。其中有一种烤着吃的“石豆腐”，质地格外硬实，烤过之后口感更硬，当然，它其实并不至于像名字所说的那样硬如石头。许多本地餐馆都供应这道菜，通常放在铁板上端上桌，搭配酱油和木鱼花（晒干、发酵并熏制后薄切的鲣鱼片）食用。