Ryokan: The Friendly Monk
Ryokan (1758–1831) lived a life far removed from the typical Zen Buddhist monk. His books and letters, the accounts of those who knew him, and anecdotes that have been passed down in the places where he lived indicate that he never took on a position as a temple priest, preferring instead to adopt a simple, and at times nomadic, lifestyle. In his wanderings, he became known for his poetry, his calligraphy, and his offbeat but personable nature. These qualities endeared him to others and contributed to his outsized reputation, which still lives on today.
Ryokan was born Yamamoto Eizo in the village of Izumozaki, in Echigo Province (present-day Niigata Prefecture). Izumozaki was a landing port for gold and silver mined on Sado Island. It was also a busy post town on the Hokkoku Highway. Ryokan’s father was a village leader and priest, and the family was wealthy. Ryokan was the eldest son, but at an early age he decided that he wanted to be a monk and took up residence at Koshoji, a nearby temple.
It was when he was ordained that he received the name “Ryokan Taigu,” which can be translated as, “One who is broad of heart, generous, and foolish.” Sometime later, a Zen master named Kokusen came to visit Koshoji. This proved to be a major turning point in Ryokan’s life. The young monk was impressed with Kokusen’s teachings and asked to become his disciple. Kokusen agreed, and the two soon returned together to his home temple, the Entsuji monastery in Tamashima (part of the present-day city of Kurashiki in Okayama Prefecture). There, Ryokan’s training involved waking up at 3 a.m., chanting sutras, cooking and cleaning, and going out to solicit alms.
When Kokusen died the year after Ryokan completed his temple training, Ryokan chose an unconventional path. He left Entsuji and embarked on a pilgrimage around Japan, learning from other temples as he went, and begging as a way of gaining the perspective of the poor. This was part of his post-enlightenment training. He saw no shame in accepting charity, and for many years he lived entirely off the kindness of those around him.
Outside of Japan, Ryokan is probably best known for his poetry and calligraphy, but he was selective about his compositions and would not sell his writing services to anyone. Instead, he would only write for the poor, if they requested it, or for those who had helped him, as a personal expression of gratitude.
Eventually, Ryokan returned to his native Echigo, where he continued his minimalist lifestyle. In the Teradomari area, he lived in a hut and at Shomyoji Temple. His love for nature is reflected in many of his writings, as is his fondness for children and his compassion for the needy.
Ryokan also formed many friendships around the village of Washima (now incorporated, with Teradomari, into the city of Nagaoka), where he came to reside later in life. Perhaps the most famous of these was his friendship with Teishin (1798–1872), a young nun, who helped care for Ryokan in his final years. He was 68 years old and in declining health when they met. Despite the gap in their age and their different social standing, the two formed a deep bond. They frequently exchanged haiku, and these tender poems demonstrate Ryokan’s renowned humor.
Another of Ryokan’s close friends and patrons toward the end of his life was the merchant Kimura Motoemon (1778–1848). Motoemon invited Ryokan to move into his house, and it was while staying there that he met Teishin. According to Teishin, Ryokan was seated in a meditation position when he died, “as if he had just fallen asleep.”
The Ryokan no Sato Art Museum in Washima contains some of Ryokan’s handwritten poetry and calligraphy. It offers visitors more details about his life: the places he visited, the people who knew him, and the works he left behind. Many of the local spots he frequented are located on a nearby street, Hachisuba Dori. You can find his grave there, at Ryusenji Temple, along with Motoemon’s house and a shrine where Ryokan sometimes played with children.
People today have the opportunity to learn about Ryokan and appreciate what a beloved figure he was by seeing his writings firsthand and following in his footsteps in Nagaoka. Two centuries after his passing, the friendly monk’s legacy endures.